Janak, East Summit, South Face Attempt
Asia, Nepal, Janak Himal
Author: Hiroshi Hagiwara.
Climb Year: N/A.
Publication Year: 2011.
A six-member team from Aoyamagakuin University Alpine Club tried to climb the virgin East Summit of Janak (7,041m) via the route on the right side of the south face, attempted in 2005 by Slovenians Miha Habjan and Andrej Stremfelj. Ages of the members ranged from 20-66, the latter that of the leader, Tsugio Iwai. Unlike the Slovenian duo, the team operated in heavyweight style, using climbing Sherpas and fixed rope.
On September 29 they established base camp at 5,200m on the Broken Glacier, then made two advanced camps, at 5,400m and 5,850m. On October 10 Masayuki Murakami and a Sherpa bivouacked high on the south face at 6,650m. The next day they started for the summit but gave up at 6,700m.
Media Gallery
Janak from the upper Broken Glacier to the southeast. The route attempted by the Japanese on the south face is marked. The left skyline, leading directly to the 7,041m main summit, is the southwest pillar, climbed in 2006 by Andrej Stremfelj and Rok Zalokar, to make the first ascent of the mountain.
Lindsay Griffin