American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Janak, East Summit, South Face Attempt

Asia, Nepal, Janak Himal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Hiroshi Hagiwara
  • Climb Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 2011

A six-member team from Aoyamagakuin University Alpine Club tried to climb the virgin East Summit of Janak (7,041m) via the route on the right side of the south face, attempted in 2005 by Slovenians Miha Habjan and Andrej Stremfelj. Ages of the members ranged from 20-66, the latter that of the leader, Tsugio Iwai. Unlike the Slovenian duo, the team operated in heavyweight style, using climbing Sherpas and fixed rope.

On September 29 they established base camp at 5,200m on the Broken Glacier, then made two advanced camps, at 5,400m and 5,850m. On October 10 Masayuki Murakami and a Sherpa bivouacked high on the south face at 6,650m. The next day they started for the summit but gave up at 6,700m.

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