American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), Attempt

Asia, Nepal, Humla Region, Kanti Himal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Tsunemichi Ikeda
  • Climb Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 2011

Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), attempt. Kojichuwa Chuli lies at the head of the Kojichuwa Khola above Mugu Village, and the peak was attempted with little success in 2008 and 2009 by Spanish and Japanese climbers (AAJ 2010). On May 16, after a six-day trek, Ken Fujikawa, Michihiro Honda, Yuta Kawahara, Satoshi Kimoto, and Ayano Suzuki established base camp at 3,600m above Mugu. Subsequently, an advanced base was placed at 4,600m, and Camp 1 at 5,100m, before the route up to the 5,625m col on the northwest ridge was fixed by Sherpas. This ridge forms the Nepal-Tibet border.

On May 24 all except Honda left advanced base and made Camp 2 on the col. They made a summit bid the next day The ridge presented difficult crevasses and steep knife-edge sections, so the climb proved time-consuming. By 7 p.m. they had only reached a northern foresummit (height unknown). The continuation to the main top was long, steep, and sharp, so they descended.

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