American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Peaks Above 6,500m, Overview

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2011

The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org

Peaks above 6,500m; overview. The year 2010 proved extremely bleak for mountaineering tourism in Pakistan. Only 26 expeditions comprising a total of 234 climbers took up permits for 6,500+m peaks (summits below this altitude require no royalty fee). This is nearly half the number of 2009, a year that was also considered very poor. Of the 26, three were attempting 8,000m peaks in winter: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and II, all during December 2010–January 2011. Six teams attempted both Gasherbrum I and II, while four tried both K2 and Broad Peak. One team attempted four of the Gasherbrums: I, II, V, and VI. This raised the total number of attempts on various summits to 40.

Twelve expeditions were successful on Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, or Gasherbrum II, with a total of 53 people reaching these summits. No one climbed K2. Gasherbrum II was climbed the most, including an historic ascent on February 2, 2011, by Simone Moro, Cory Richards, and Denis Urubko, who made the first winter ascent of any 8,000er in Pakistan. Other than this, an expedition to Spantik, one to Latok I, and another to Tahu Ratum were all unsuccessful.

As in 2009 the reduction on royalty fees was continued for 2010, with a 90% reduction for all peaks except Spantik in Chitral, Gilgit, and Ghizar (peaks above 6,500m outside these areas receive a 60% reduction), and a 95% reduction on all peaks during the winter season. These reductions will continue in 2011.

Karrar Haidri, Alpine Club of Pakistan

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.