American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Parandas (4,250m) and Bodhana (5,138m), Maximenja Routes

Asia, Tajikistan, Zeravshin Range, Fanskiy Gory

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year: 2010
  • Publication Year: 2011

From July 13–18 Alexander Maximenja from Minsk, Belarus, climbed a new route on Parandas. His route is situated to the left of the line put up by the Odessa climbers, who were operating on the wall at the same time and who he met on the descent. Maximenja’s route crosses the Tischenko route in the upper half of the face. Meltwater affected the climbing in the lower section, beginning between 10–12 a.m. and reaching its worst between 3–5 p.m. The overall grade was 6A, with technical difficulties of 6c and A3. Substantial sections of the route could be free climbed, and more would have been possible were it not for the wetness of the wall.

After resting, and then some days of rain, he set off for the west face of Bodhana, and from July 25–August 2 made a solo ascent of a new route on the far right side of the wall. He had to contend with cold, wet weather; as with his climb on Parandas, he used a hammock for bivouacs. As usual, he took neither sleeping bag nor down jacket, which as a rule he finds get wet on these climbs and become a burden. His line was parallel to but right of the Odessa team, whom he met at the snow terrace at the base of the upper section of the wall, and who generously left chocolate for him on the summit. The route had an overall grade of 6A with technical difficulties up to 6c and A4.

Anna Piunova,, from information provided by Alexander Maximenja

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