American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Kvaloya Island, Blammanen (861m), North Face, Luna

Norway, Tromso Region

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 2011

In late August Ole Ivar Lied and I climbed a new route toward the right side of Blammanen’s north face. Luna (430m, Nor 5+ A3) starts 15-20m right of Frost (M5 A3, Bo-Nebell, 2007) and in the first section follows a well-defined line. Above, the route becomes more complex, with thin seams connected by exciting aid climbing. We climbed five pitches largely on aid before reaching easier ground and connecting into Frost below its final pitch. We spent two days fixing the first three pitches, then completed the route in a long day. The route needs everything from hooks to a Camalot 5. Peckers/Birdbeaks were particularly useful on every aid pitch. Overall, the line provides nice climbing, although some sections are often wet. We didn’t stay on the wall; for that we would have needed a portaledge, as there is no real ledge before the top of pitch five.

Odd-Roar Wiik, provided by Marten Blixt, AlpinKlatring, Norway

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.

Photos and Topos Click photo to view full size and see caption