American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Ansilta 4, Seis Hermanos

South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Andes

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Henry Bizot, France, AAC
  • Climb Year: 2010
  • Publication Year: 2011

On September 19, during Argentina’s dry 2010 winter, in the remote and little-visited Cordillera Ansilta, located 250km north of Mendoza and 50km from Barreal, Gabriel Fava (Argentina) and I climbed a new route on Ansilta 4 (5,116m).

From base camp (3,950m) we hiked along a moraine toward the mountain; early in the walk, in the Morillos hills, we found fantastic caves with ancient paintings. We continued to the base and climbed the 750m southeast ridge (French D in these dry conditions, 55° max), beginning with a 400m ice face and followed by 350m of mixed terrain to the summit. In the absence of previous known ascents, we named the route Seis Hermanos, dedicated to my six boys.

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.

Photos and Topos Click photo to view full size and see caption