American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Mituraju, West Face and Other Activity

South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Sergio Ramírez Carrascal, Peru
  • Climb Year: 2010
  • Publication Year: 2011

Mituraju, west face and other activity. The Equipo Español de Alpinismo (Spanish Alpine Climbing Team) installed base camp at Jahuacocha lake - Gocha Cutan (4,066m) on May 20. From there they crossed a dangerous glacier and carried their equipment to high camp (5,000m) on the plateau beneath Rondoy, Mituraju, Jirishanca, Yerupajá Chico, and El Toro. Conditions in most of the mountains last May were very dry and dangerous, with falling rocks and many crevasses.

The brothers Martín and Simón Elías (director of team) attempted a new route on Yerupaja Grande’s (6,634m) southwest face/ridge, reaching 6,200m. Afterward, Alex Corpas, Silvestre Barrientos, Mikel Bonilla, and Simón Elías tried the first repeat of the 1985 Joe Simpson - Simon Yates route the west face of Siula Grande (6,354m), also reaching 6,200m.

On June 5, on the west face of Mituraju (5,750m), Barrientos and Corpas established Está el Barrio Que da Miedo (750m, MD+ 90° M5 V5) to the summit ridge. The next day, Bonilla and Dani Crespo also climbed high on the west face, calling their efforts Pim Pam Toma Cornisazo (MD+ 90° M5 V5). Both attacks were made from the TAM glacier in one day each.

Later in July, in the Cordillera Blanca, Crespo and Bonilla died while attempting a new route on the west face of Chacraraju (6,112m). Beforehand they had climbed the Bouchard route on the same mountain, and also, with David Bautista, made the first almost-free (one pendulum) ascent of Papas Rellenas (650m, 6c A3) on Cerro Parón (a.k.a. La Esfinge, 5,325m), freeing the A3 section at 7b.

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.

Photos and Topos Click photo to view full size and see caption