Schweizerland, Various Ascents

North America, Greenland, East Coast
Author: Kai Maluck. Climb Year: 2010. Publication Year: 2011.

The 2010 Braunschweiger Grönlandexpedition flew to Kulusuk on July 12, and over the next two days traveled northeast by boat and on foot (with pulks) into the mountains between Knud Rasmussen Gletscher and Kangertivartikajik Fjord. Base camp was established northeast of the head of the Kangertivartikajik Fjord at 266m. From there Thorsten Henszelewski, Jens Köhler, Gaby Lappe, Birgit Lehmann, and I were able to climb nearly every day, due to almost continuous sunshine. We reached a number of summits, some of which may not have been climbed before.

Possible first ascents and unofficial names are: Inuuitseerdumud Dunitsud (Birthday Present, 1,325m, UIAA III+, 66°02'22" N, 36°16'47" W); Qaqqardivaq Maluck (Maluck Peak, 1,318m, from northeast at UIAA II, 66°02'33" N, 36°16'27" W); Qaqqardivaq Thorsten (Thorsten Peak, 1,316m, northeast ridge, UIAA III, 66°02'06" N, 36° 17'13" W); Qaqqardivaq Kohler (Kohler Peak, 1,210m, from northeast, 45° and UIAA II, 66°01'25" N, 36°16'05" W); Emanuelala Neqqisaad (Emanuel’s Tooth, 933m, from north, 35-40° and UIAA I, 66°00'08" N, 36°10'18" W); Arpiip Paperngija (Whales Back), traversed over Pingaarnerdud Qaarpijaa (main summit, ca 515m, 66°00'54" N, 36°14'03" W) and Oqqummud Qaarpijaa (south summit, ca 440m, 66°00'21" N, 36°14'22" W) at UIAA II-; Lehmann Innardaa (Lehmannwand, 466m, 66°02'26" N, 36°12'52" W,) via parallel routes, Pilaadungu (UIAA IV) and Makkariinasud Niimiddiileq (UIAA III-, 120m of climbing); Sarpik (Whale Fluke, ca 270m, from north, ca 66°00'05" N, 36°14'22"W). Repeat ascents were made of the following:

Kunuup Dereqqua (Knud’s Corner, 1,326m, from the southwest, 40° and UIAA II-, 66°02'52" N, 36°16'24" W); Qaqqardivaq Emanuela (Cima Emanuela) over Kijammud Qaarpijaa (north summit, 1,006m, 65°59'53" N, 36°10'30" W) and Pingaarnerdud Qaarpijaa (main summit, 1,025m, 65°59'47"N, 36°10’33" W) at 45° and UIAA I (first climbed in 1979 by M. Cotichelli and G. Rupi); Tseriip Isiva (Peaks of the Sun), first to Alaatsimud Qaarpijaa (central summit, 937m, by southwest pillar, III+ on broken terrain, 200m of climbing, 66°01'19" N, 36°08'21" W), and then along the connecting ridge (11+) to Oqqummummud Kimmud Qaarpijaa (southeast summit, 943m, cairns found on both summits, 66°01'13" N, 36°08'09" W); Nartsaamaniip Isiva (Plateau Peak, 915m, by southeast ramp at UIAA I, cairn found on summit, 66°01'34" N, 36°05'57" W); a traverse of Diaavuluup Naddivad (Devil’s Horns) over Kijammud Kangimud Qaarpijaa (northwest summit, 794m, 65°58'45" N, 36°14'55" W) and Pingaarnerdud Qaarpijaa (main summit, 910m, UIAA III-, first climbed in 1969 by an Italian Alpine Club expedition, 65°58'20" N, 36°14'25" W); Qaqqardivaq Pyramid (Pyramid Peak, 840m, northwest slope, 35-40° and UIAA I, cairn found on summit, 66°01'04" N, 36°06'19" W); Lappe Innardaa (Lappe Face, 690m, from the west, 66°00'27" N, 36°09'37" W). We arrived back in Kulusuk on the 28th.

A complete expedition report (in German) including maps, photos of the peaks, and route descriptions:

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