American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Peak 10,510', first ascent, West Face

Alaska, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: John Kelley
  • Climb Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 2011

In late July, Jim Beyer and I made the likely first ascent of Peak 10,510', across the glacier northwest of Mt. Hobbs. We landed on an unnamed glacier on the south side of the range, a mile (at most) from the peak, then scrambled up a scree gully and onto the hanging glacier west of the peak. The West Face started around 40° and steepened to 65° at the top. About 3,000' of ice led to the summit block, which was a short pitch of 5.4. We rappelled the route, mostly on V-threads, returning to camp in a 20-hour round trip.

John Kelley

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