American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Mantok II, First Ascent, Ladies' Couloir, Peak 10,020', Northwest Face to Summit Ridge

Alaska, Alaska Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Christopher Wright
  • Climb Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 2011

After reading trip reports and getting beta from Freddie Wilkinson, who along with various partners has established multiple climbs in the area, from April 8-20 Joey McBrayer and I explored the Northeast Fork of the Yentna Glacier. In mostly dismal weather we attempted several unclimbed features with limited success. Early in the trip we climbed the northwest face (3,000', AI4+ M5R) of an unnamed 10,020' peak, but did not continue to the summit. The peak is on the wilderness boundary just over two miles southwest of the Bat’s Ears (Peak 11,044', AAJ 2009, pp. 130–132), and marked on the map on p. 153 of the 2008 AAJ.

After considerable cowering and a few more aborted efforts, we made what we believe was the first ascent of a ca 9,600' peak we called Mantok II. The peak sits along the same ridgeline (about 1.5 miles to the northeast) as Mantok I, a peak that Wilkinson, Gilmore, and Doucette summited in 2007. We took a moderate gully system on the left side of the southeast face to the southwest ridge and continued to the summit via broad, crevassed terrain, descended the same way, and named the route Ladies’ Couloir (2,800', AI3+).

Christopher Wright, AAC

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