American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Mt. Foraker, Dracula

Alaska, Alaska Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 2011

From June 13-15, Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Colin Haley climbed Mt. Foraker by starting on False Dawn, then making the first ascent of a 3,000' mixed wall on the southeast face, and finishing via the French Ridge. Their climb, Dracula (AI4+ M6R AO), rises 10,400' from base to summit. They descended the Japanese Route, completing the round- trip in a sleepless 71-hour push. Beforehand, while acclimatizing on Denali, they simul-soloed the Cassin Ridge in 17 hours, coming close to the fastest known time for the route. See Aartun’s feature article earlier in this Journal.

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