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College Glacier Area, Various Ascents

In the College Glacier region, numerous 8,000' peaks (the highest peaks in the Delta Mountains south of the Denali Fault) make for good late-April/early-May weekend outings with a small rack of pins and pickets for glacier travel. With various Fairbanks folks active in the area over the years, first ascent histories are largely unknown, thus the peaks lend themselves to the ever-common second, third, and fourth first ascents. [The claiming of new routes that have already been climbed—Ed.] In 2009 and again in 2010, Sam Herried, Andy Sterns, and I climbed the southwest face of Peak 8,100' on the College Glacier, each time in about 36 hours round trip from the car, and climbing at night to avoid rockfall. At least one of those ascents is a second first ascent.

Also in 2010, Herried and I climbed the nearby Peak 8,110' via its east ridge, approaching on skis up the College Glacier and over a pass to the east onto an unnamed glacier, which we call “No Name Glacier.” Again, the trip took us about 36 hours car-to-car, and we climbed at night.

Jeff Benowitz, AAC