The Titan, Gimp Warfare, Echo Tower, Sidewinder

North America, United States, Utah
Author: Paul Gagner. Climb Year: 2010. Publication Year: 2011.

In early March, Jeremy Aslaksen and I explored the virtually unclimbed east face of the Titan in the Fisher Towers. The only route on the face is an old Jim Beyer route, World’s End, which climbs the extreme left margin. After climbing four new pitches we hustled back to the car in an amazing rain, thunder, and lightning storm. A return trip in April was thwarted when I pulled off a block on a downclimb while hiking back to the car, fell 10 feet, and broke three bones in my foot. Over the next few months Jeremy added a new pitch, solo, to keep up the progress. After my foot healed enough to climb again, we returned in August, in 100°+ temperatures, to finish Gimp Warfare (8 pitches, VI 5.10 A3). The route is characterized by much beaking.

In December, we climbed Sidewinder (5 pitches, V 5.9+ A1++), a new route on the right side of the south face of Echo Tower. The first pitch had previously been climbed, as evidenced by a bolt and belay anchor. The route joins Run Amok one pitch from the top. The second pitch climbs a wide crack to a pedestal on the north face just left of Phantom Sprint, then a beak crack and a short six-bolt ladder back around to the south side of the tower. The route requires a significant amount of wide gear, and mostly climbs the tower on the opposite side of Phantom Spirit.

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