American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Lady Wilson's Bush

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Wilson

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Mark Jenkins
  • Climb Year: 2010
  • Publication Year: 2011

This climb is a long, sketchy-but-easy, rockaineering ascent of Mt. Wilson. In mid-April, Oliver Deshler and I hiked two hours to the base, up a gully toward Resolution Arête and Inti Watana, past the Inti Watana ravine, and bushwacked another 100' up the main gully Then we hooked left, scrambling up to a broad shelf with an obvious vertical crack (looking south you can see the ponderosa on the shelf at the base of Resolution). From there we climbed 13 pitches to the summit: P1: 200', 5.9, mossy hands and fingers to top of buttress, belay off a bush. P2: 200', scramble up and left toward the very wide, leftmost crack 40' right of Inti Watana. P3: 170', 5.8, avoid chimney by climbing vertical finger crack on right. P4:160', 5.9, stem chimney up through mossy handcrack roof.

P5: 150', 5.7, stemming, handcracking through two easy roofs. P6: 200', 5.6R, stem chimney. P7: 170', 5.7R, stem chimney airy, go left to big bushy belay. P8: 200', 5.6R, chimney. P9: 200', scramble through keyhole on right, then left up chimney, circling around to top of giant white block leaning against face. P10: 200', 5.9X, climb straight up white face on sketchy white flakes that provide psychological pro, past the tree on the left. P11: 200', 5.9, don’t go to next tree up and right, instead climb finger crack straight up. P12: 100', scramble straight up to big tree. P13: 200', scramble rightward, above Aeolian Wall, tree-to-tree, finally passing left through chimney to wide, cactus-covered ledge. Hike 400', starting on a ledge south and then curling up and around to the saddle and summit. Lady Wilsons Bush (a.k.a. Skeazy, 2,000' 5.9+ R/X).

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