American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Overview

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2010

Overview. The year 2009 was bleak for mountaineering in Pakistan, as the security situation adversely affected the inflow of tourists. Sixty-three teams applied to attempt various peaks, but 18 withdrew their applications, and two teams that had been granted permits did not turn up, leaving only 43 expeditions in the field.

It was a bad year on K2 and Broad Peak. As many as 55 climbers from six teams tried to climb K2, but none succeeded, and Italian Michael Fait lost his life. On Broad Peak 78 climbers from various teams tried their luck, but only one managed to reach the summit.

All three expeditions to Nanga Parbat were successful, putting 22 out of 41 climbers on top, including four Pakistani climbers. But again the “Killer Mountain” lived up to its nickname, as two climbers died after summiting on July 10.

All five expeditions on Gasherbrum I were successful, putting 18 out of 51 members on top. Four out of nine expeditions launched on Gasherbrum II were successful, putting 11 out of 98 climbers on the summit.

During 2009 the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism maintained a 50 percent reduction on royalty fees for peak permits. There is no royalty on peaks below 6,500m. The Alpine Club of Pakistan publishes a list of fees at

Karrar Haidri, Alpine Club of Pakistan

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