American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Tengri Tag, Pik Pobeda (7,439m), North Face to West Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2010

Pik Pobeda (7,439m), north face to west ridge. At the end of August, Russians Vitaly Gorelik and Gleb Sokolov made the first ascent of the north face of the formation known as the Camel on the west ridge of Pik Pobeda. The objective dangers on the lower section of the 2,400m mixed buttress on Pobeda, climbed alpine-style in seven and a half days, were high, and the pair had spent several years trying for the right conditions before setting foot on the route. Steep sections of technical ice and mixed climbing were made more difficult by poor weather on the upper part of the wall. On reaching the west ridge, close to two snow humps, the pair continued to a high point of 6,950m. They did not go to the main summit but descended the standard Medzmariashvilli route (5B) over the top of Pobeda West (Pik Pavel Pshavel, 6,918m) and down its north ridge to Dikiy Pass. This ascent was nominated for a 2010 Piolets d’Or. Sokolov, who was nearly 56 at the time of the ascent, has written a full account that appears earlier in the Journal.

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