American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Vincent Massif Summary

Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Damien Gildea
  • Climb Year: 2010
  • Publication Year: 2010

Around 120 people summited Mt. Vinson (4,892m), somewhat fewer than in recent years. Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions (ALE) guide David Hamilton and friend Patrick Bird made the second ascent of Mt. Rutford (4,477m), probably the ninth highest mountain in Antarctica. The pair finished their trip with another ascent of Vinson the following day, this time using the right-hand variation on the summit pyramid, climbing from west to east. This route was popular more than a decade ago, but now nearly all climbers follow the eastern ridge of the summit pyramid and descend the same way.

In the southern section of the Ellsworth Mountains several parties did numerous small climbs. Several people from ALE climbed minor peaks around the Union Glacier, in the vicinity of Connell Canyon and Henderson Valley. British climber Dominic Spicer and ALE guide Robin Jarvis also climbed in this area and farther south, toward Patriot Hills. The duo made two ascents above the Henderson Glacier—one a subpeak of Hoinkes Peak, overlooking Connell Canyon, and another overlooking the Union Glacier. They also climbed farther south in the range, making the second ascent of Gliozzi Peak (1,477m), via the northwest ridge. This summit lies in the Douglas Peaks, a small massif on the eastern side of Horseshoe Valley. Across the valley, in the Independence Hills (behind the Patriot Hills), they made an ascent of the west summit of Simmons, climbed a minor 1,356m summit south of Geissel Peak, and made the first ascent of Beitzel Peak, just south of the impressive marble pyramid of Minaret Peak.

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