American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

A.A.C., Deep South Section

  • Club Activities
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  • Publication Year: 2010

Cochamó, Señor Cara de Papa, La Cara de Decepción. Mid-January, 2010, after two weeks of consistent rain, Matt Othmer and I established the first route on the last formation before the pass to El Monstruo, across the valley from Trinidad Sur. We called it Señor Cara de Papa (Mr. Potato Head), and our line, La Cara de Deceptión (5.11+ A2+), climbed the beautiful north face on what looked to be perfect splitter granite cracks. Cochamo’s face of deception was quite ugly. The splitter cracks turned out to be moss- covered and flared as hell, the moss creating an illusion of deep splitters. We placed four bolts on lead and Matt used his nut tool as a bird beak, but we got to the top of the face in six pitches, from where a fourth-class scramble would take you to the summit. We started rapping, and established a rappel line down the face. I do not recommend this route without either serious aid intentions or cleaning equipment. The best line on the formation will be if the waterfall dries up on the left side of the east face.

Asa Firestone, AAC

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