American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Cerro Freile, Inanición

South America, Argentina, Central Andes

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Fernando Fainberg, Chile
  • Climb Year: 2009
  • Publication Year: 2010

On January 10, 2010, Waldo Farias and I did a new route, Inanición (“Starving”), on Cerro Freile (4,598m), Marmolejo Valley, Chile, 100km west of Santiago. The mountain is an island of granite between the typical bad rock of the Central Cordillera, and we thought it could offer good climbing. The route ascends the prominent east ridge. The first 300m are 5.5, but with bad rock. Then the climbing steepens, 75°–80°, through loose granite blocks, 5.8 with poor protection, before traversing right (north) along a terrace through more bad rock, exposed, with minimal protection but easy, until emerging on the east face. Above, we found more vertical climbing, no harder than 5.8, with better rock. After 450 meters of climbing, we reached the upper ridge, very exposed and with more bad rock. Another 600m of climbing/scrambling along the ridge brought us to the summit. The descent, via the 1942 first-ascent route, required care, between the terrible rock (not granite), exposure, and a 40° snow slope. We did the route in one day, taking 17 hours camp-to-camp; the vertical gain is 1,000m.

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