American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Cerro Presidente Perón, First Ascent; Cerro Bifurcación, South Face and Ridge

South America, Argentina, Central Andes

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Marcelo Scanu, Buenos Aires, Argentina
  • Climb Year: 2009
  • Publication Year: 2010

The West Glacier of Pissis, Argentina, is 40km square, the biggest in the region. It can only be reached after a difficult 200km off-road ride. The only attempt on the route was by Mexicans in 1994. In March a team led by Guillermo Almaraz, with Eduardo Namur, Nicolas Pantaleon, and Daniel Pontm, erected base camp at 5,000m (S 27 43 04.5, W 68 54 00.8) in the valley that accesses the West Glacier. They made Camp 1 at 5,600m beside the glacier (S 27 44 03.1, W 68 51 40.8), and the next day traversed the 7km glacier, camping at 5,950m near the ridge used by the Polish on the 1937 first ascent (S 27 44 48.3, W 68 48 45.5). The final summit bid was made by Almaraz, Namur, and Pantaleon, ascending the snowy face and reaching the ridge that is the final part of the original route. They continued to a minor summit (Gendarmería Nacional, 6,675m), then to a col between it and the main summit, which they reached shortly after midday on March 14. The group believes the last unofficial measurement, 6,795m (official is 6,882m), to be accurate.

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