American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Nevado Ticlla, Southwest and Southeast Face

South America, Peru , Cordillera Yauyos

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Sergio Ramírez Carrascal, Peru
  • Climb Year: 2009
  • Publication Year: 2010

Ticlla (5,897m) is highest nevado of the Cordillera de Yauyos (east of Lima), located in the Reserva Paisajistica Nor Yauyos Cocha and accessed from the town of Miraflores (3,600m), whose residents call the peak “Cotoni.” French climbers Jean Francois Fillot, Sylvain Mellet, and Nicolas Whirsching trekked to a pass at 4,750m and continued to Lake Huascacohca (4,200m). They went north toward Ticlla and made base camp at 4,600m, close to a little unnamed lake. To reach the bottom of the southwest face, they climbed the very left side of rock bands and, at 4,900m, traversed just under the seracs to the right. They reached the glacier, passed the bergschrund on the right, and climbed directly toward the rock bands close to the summit. At 5,550m they climbed over a cornice onto the southeast face, 100m below the summit. Most of the route was 45°-50° and was done unroped. The southeast face is continuous 50°-55° snow from 5,400m to 5,850m and then becomes easier. The climbers, who made the climb on May 8, perceived the overall difficulty as 900m D.

Nicolas and Sylvain then skied the southeast face (500m, 50°-55° continuous), while Jean Francois downclimbed it to 5,750m, but became ill and could not continue. His teammates and the Miraflores people worked together to rescue him.

Also, all three climbed and descended on skis the north face of Ranrapalca, in the Cordillera Blanca.

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