American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Nevado Vicuñita, Last Inca

South America, Peru, Cordillera Central

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Sergio RamÍrez Carrascal, Peru
  • Climb Year: 2010
  • Publication Year: 2010

In late January, Peruvians Beto Pinto, Steven Fuentes, Roger Lliuya, and Darío Yucra, students of CEAM (the official mountain guiding school of Peru), made camp at Lake Paccha (4,600m), below the southwest face of Nevado Vicunita (5,550m). They began at 3 a.m. on the 27th and at 6 a.m. reached 120m of unstable mixed ground below a hanging glacier. Above, a 100m, 60°-90° ice couloir took two hours and was the most difficult part of the wall. A 50°, 120m wall with loose snow then led to the north ridge. Following the north ridge they reached the main summit at midday. The next day they descended to the village of San Mateo and named the route Last Inca (400m, MD+ 6a 65-90°).

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