American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
Black Diamond Logo

Nevado Rurec, Traverse

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Carlos Buhler, AAC
  • Climb Year: 2009
  • Publication Year: 2010

From June 8 to 10 two Spaniards, Eloi Callado and Joan Sole, and I traversed the twin summits of Nevado Rurec (5,696m) from the east. We originally wanted to climb the south side of Huantsan from a base camp beneath the southeast face, which we approached from Chavin in two days with burros. Our climb went up the east face of Huantsan’s south ridge to its crest at ca 5,600m, where we bivied. Then, however, rather than continuing up Huantsan, we headed west over the summits of Rurec and descended north into the Quebrada Rajucolta, then went on to Huaraz. Our cook brought our gear, with arrieros, from our base camp back to Chavin and then Huaraz. I don’t think anyone had traversed Nevado Rurec from east to west before. It wasn’t so much a spectacular route, but more of an extended alpine traverse.

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.

Photos and Topos Click photo to view full size and see caption