American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Urus Central, El Vuelo del Inca

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Sergio Ramírez Carrascal, Peru
  • Climb Year: 2009
  • Publication Year: 2010

After hiking to an advanced camp (4,900m) in the Ishinca Valley on October 16, Beto Pinto and Eric Albino began climbing the south face of Urus Central (5,495m). The initial 360m had loose snow and mixed climbing, to 80°, along with falling blocks of ice. They passed this section in two hours and continued on hard 70° snow for another six 60m pitches, reaching the summit at 12:30 p.m. They descended a ridge, with three rappels, and returned to camp by 6 p.m. El Vuelo del Inca (360m, MD+ 6a M5 70-90°).

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