American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Tatewari, Nayeri

North America, Mexico, Nuevo León

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Oriol Anglada
  • Climb Year: 2009
  • Publication Year: 2010

La Huasteca still has many walls to explore, and this 500m south-facing wall of limestone, just 15 minutes from Monterrey, had two routes and an unfinished project. David Tirado (Mexico), my wife Marisol Monterrubio (Mexico), and I started with the first pitch and the three first bolts of the second pitch of Carlos Garcia’s route Cola de Venado. We then went a little right, then mostly straight to the summit. Nayeri (11 pitches, V 5.12 [obligatory 5.11]) is named after our one-year-old daughter, is sustained, and is set among wild scenery. The route is fully bolted, with gear optional for some easy runouts. Descend by rappel.

We took a week in late December to create the route, sleeping on the valley floor and usually waking late before jumaring back up. On the last day we slept on the summit, which is a vegetated ridge with rocks and thorny plants, but we cleaned it and made a perfect bivy for four or five climbers.

Directions: From Monterrey enter La Huasteca National Park. Follow the paved road for 5km to a gravel turn-off on the right. Tatewari is visible on the right, past the other beautiful wall of Pico Erin. Just in front is the Don Simon ranch, with the entrance to Guitarritas Canyon on the other side. The approach takes 30 minutes.

Oriol Anglada, Catalonia, Spain

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