American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, More Fox Jaw History

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2010

More Fox Jaw history. Some history of climbing in the Fox Jaw Cirque was reported in AAJ 2008, pp. 207-211. In addition, in 2000 Christoph Mauerhofer and friends from Switzerland climbed two routes. The first was seven pitches to the summit of Baby Molar (Milk Tooth Spire), where they found a cairn. Their route appears to lie between routes (1) and (2) on the photo in AAJ 2008. The difficulties were reported to be moderate, and the team noted several other lines on this face that would offer enjoyable first ascents. They equipped the descent with 8mm bolts. The second route led to the summit referred to as Cavity Ridge, climbing the obvious right-hand pillar below (F) on the photo in 16 pitches. The Swiss completed the route alpine-style in a long day at 6a, spending three hours waiting on a ledge during darkness. All belays were equipped with hand-drilled 8mm bolts.

In 2006 Gemma Woldendorp and Natasha Sebire spent two weeks in the area but experienced only two days without rain. They climbed a line on Baby Molar up the face left of (3). After four pitches up to 6a A2, they retreated just short of an easy scramble leading to the summit. Prior to this they climbed in an area called the Col de Phantome. At the back of the cirque they climbed five pitches (up to 6a A2+) on a peak shaped like a vertical shield, but were stopped just short of the summit due to loose rock.

From information provided by Gemma Woldendorp, Australia

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