AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Stikine Ice Cap, New Routes and First Ascents

Climbing from the Baird Glacier’s unnamed south arm (“Burkett Glacier” to climbers) in June, Max Hasson and Jens Holsten made several impressive ascents. They made a free ascent of Burkett Needle (ca 8,500') via a new variation (5.10+) to the 2,500' South Pillar (V 5.10 A3+, Cauthorn-Collum-Foweraker, 1995); did the first ascent of Silly Wizard Peak (ca 7,350') via the Thriller Arête (southwest arête, 3,000', 5.7X 50°); first ascent of the northwest ridge (3,000', 5.8 M4) of Mt. Suzanne (ca 7,190'); and a huge new route, National Public Ridge direct south ridge; 5,700', 5.10R AI3) on Mt. Burkett (9,730'). See Holsten's feature article in this Journal.