Stikine Ice Cap, New Routes and First Ascents
Alaska, Coast Mountains
Climb Year: N/A.
Publication Year: 2010.
Climbing from the Baird Glacier’s unnamed south arm (“Burkett Glacier” to climbers) in June, Max Hasson and Jens Holsten made several impressive ascents. They made a free ascent of Burkett Needle (ca 8,500') via a new variation (5.10+) to the 2,500' South Pillar (V 5.10 A3+, Cauthorn-Collum-Foweraker, 1995); did the first ascent of Silly Wizard Peak (ca 7,350') via the Thriller Arête (southwest arête, 3,000', 5.7X 50°); first ascent of the northwest ridge (3,000', 5.8 M4) of Mt. Suzanne (ca 7,190'); and a huge new route, National Public Ridge direct south ridge; 5,700', 5.10R AI3) on Mt. Burkett (9,730'). See Holsten's feature article in this Journal.