American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Peak 9,365', First Ascent and Ski Descent, and Exploration

Alaska, St. Elias Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Ryan Hokanson
  • Climb Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 2010

In April, Tory Dugan, Jason Kwiatkowski, and I began a month-long kite-assisted ski expedition with a goal of traveling from the Hubbard Glacier to the Miles Glacier, a distance of nearly 200 miles. We skied many couloirs and features along our route, the most notable on April 30, when we made what we believe to be the first ascent and ski descent of Peak 9,365', approximately 12 miles west of Mt. Saint Elias. From the Bagley Icefield we climbed and skied the northeast face, with 2,000' of relief, numerous large crevasses, and névé snow to 60°. I cut a finger tendon with a pocketknife and had to be evacuated, but Jason and Tory completed the route to the Miles.

Ryan Hokanson, AAC

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