American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Ruby Peak, East Corner

United States, California, Sierra Nevada

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Joe LeMay
  • Climb Year: 2009
  • Publication Year: 2010

Out of Mosquito Flats, and past Ruby Lake, on September 26 Miguel Carmona and I established the East Corner (IV 5.9) on the steep Ruby Wall (east wall) of Ruby Peak. The route climbs eight pitches to a summit where the East Arête and Left East Arête also most likely finish.

Miguel and I had made our first trip to the Ruby Wall two weeks earlier. We started on the left side, climbed five pitches in a big corner, but retreated in intermittent snow and hail. We returned and reclimbed to our prior belays, added another long pitch, and finished with easier climbing to the summit.

The route starts on the left side of the main wall between the East Arête (Rowell-Wilson) and Central Route (Rowell-White). An elevated platform marks the start, and lowerangled pitches (5.7 and 5.4) lead to the corner. The third pitch moves right, then back left through steeper flakes to arrive at the 400' right-facing corner that defines the route. Steep, sustained pitches end on excellent ledges. The final section eased slightly and finished to the left, on a big platform, and our first warm sun for most of the route. We then finished the pitches to the top. The long descent involves going south along the ridge, dropping into notches, re-attaining the summit plateau, and dropping down a very loose slope to the Mono Pass Trail.

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