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North America, United States, Washington, Sloan Peak, Fire on the Mountain

Sloan Peak, Fire on the Mountain. Rad Roberts and I established a new route on the southwest face of Sloan Peak that, compared to new routes established in the ’Rado or California, would be a grade IV. But going by the AAC’s use of the IV definition being a “full day of technical climbing,” we think it’s more fairly a grade III+. The whole grade thing is messed up and pretty vague, though, so here’s what we did:

We did 1,200' of steep climbing, and then 500' of class 3-type stuff to the summit. Pitches were probably: 5.11- (1), 5.10 something (6), and a couple around 5.8. We started climbing at maybe 9 a.m., and it took around 11 hours to the summit.

Blake Herrington, AAC