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Asia, Tibet, Tibetan (and Xinjiang) Mountains, Various Ascents

Tibetan (and Xinjiang) mountains, various ascents. The following climbs, primarily in Tibet, were made during 2007 and 2008. All are first known ascents. Kangzhagri, Kukushili, Pulha Ri, Purog Kangri, Sirenshou, and Toze Kangri Northeast have a prominence of more than 1,000m. Coordinates, approach, ascent routes, and type of terrain are only briefly detailed, the main purpose of this report being to inform future parties that these generally remote peaks have been climbed. Unsuccessful attempts on Qierlizuoke Feng, Sirengou, and Guozha Kangri are not detailed.

Beginning in the west with two peaks in Xinjiang: Sirenshou (N 35°49'33", E 79°13'42") by the north ridge (three days approach on foot, followed by glacier, snow, and scree to 30°, American-Swedish party, September 2, 2007); Jiao Feng (Qierlizuoke South, N 35°58'09", E 79°26'33") by the northwest ridge (two days approach on foot, followed by snow to 55–60°, American-Swedish party, September 9, 2007). These lie close to the Mazar-Ali Shiquane road; no heights are given on the official Chinese map. A little farther east in the Tibet Autonomous Region: Toze Kangri Southwest (official height 6,356m, GPS 6,366m, N 34°44'20", E 82°19'51") by the north-northwest ridge (one week approach on foot and bike, followed by glacier and snow to 35°, German-Swedish party, October 4, 2007); Toze Kangri Northeast (official height 6,356m, GPS 6,369m, N 34°46'32", E 82°21'52") by the west face (one week approach on foot and bike, followed by glacier and snow to 35°, Swedish, solo, October 6, 2007); Toze Pyramid (GPS 6,329m, N 34°41'44", E 82°12'56") by the east face and rock pillar from south (nine days approach on foot and bike, followed by snow and ice to 45° and a vertical rock section, Swedish, solo, October 8,2007).

On the high Changtang Tibetan Plateau: Kukushili (Songzhi Ling, official height 6,360m, GPS 6,388m, N 35°39'48", E 85°37'03") by the south face (36 days approach on foot and bike, followed by snow to 55–60°, Canadian-Danish-Swedish party, June, 28, 2008); Purog Kangri (Purog/Zangser massif, official height 6,436m, GPS 6,438m, N 34°25'00", E 85°38'03") by the south ridge/face (47 days approach on foot and bike, followed by snow to 35°, Canadian-Danish-Swedish party, July 9, 2008); Kangzhagri (Kung Oscars Fjall, official height 6,305m, GPS 6,323m, N 35°33'25", E 89°34'40") by the west-southwest face (27 days approach on foot and bike, followed by glacier and snow to 45°, Canadian-Swedish party, June 26, 2007). The approach days given for these three peaks represent unsupported days beyond the last point of civilization.

Two peaks were climbed in south-central Tibet, north of the Himalaya, approached via the Friendship Highway. Jietanzhouma (official height 6,008m/6,052m, GPS 6,028m, N 28°51'40", E 90°08'10") is just south of the Gyantse road and the Noijin Kangsang massif. It was climbed by the east couloir (two days approach on foot, followed by snow/ice to 50°, Swedish, solo, March 12, 2008). Pulha Ri (Maphu Kangri, official height 6,404m, GPS 6,424m, N 28°58'06", E 87°16'39") lies between Tingri and Lhaze, and is not far from Lhagoi Kangri, just east of the road. It was climbed by the southeast ridge (the three days approach on foot involved a vertical icefall, then snow/ice to 45°, Swedish, solo, April 6, 2008).

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO