American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Mt. Edgar (6,618m), West Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Mt. Edgar (6,618m), west face. Previously unreported in the AAJ, but a significant addition to the climbing history of the Daxue Shan, is the first ascent of Mt. Edgar (E Gongga) in 2001 by a Korean expedition. The mountain was recon- noitered by the British military expedition that attempted Jiazi in 1981 and attempted the following year by Stuart Hepburns British team. Expedition members made attempts on both the west and south faces before bad weather and poor snow conditions forced them down.The Korean expedition came from the Mokpo University Alpine Club and had attempted the highest mountain in the range, Minya Konka (Gongga Shan, 7,556m), in 1996, 1998, and 2000. Kim Jae-myung, who made the first ascent of Minya Konka’s northeast ridge in 1998 (during the ascent one member was lost, and the Koreans returned to the mountain in 2000 to try to find the body), returned in 2001 with Lee Yong-boo and Kim Yong-jai and climbed Edgar by a predominately snow/ice spur on the west face. They established three camps, the highest at 5,900m, before Kim Jae-myung and Lee Yong-boo crossed a foresummit and reached the corniced main summit. Edgar, which lies north of Minya Konka, is named after J. Huston Edgar, an archaeologist with the China Inland Mission, who was an important developer of the historical and topographical knowledge of this region

Christine Pae, Director, Korean Alpine Federation, and Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO.

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