American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Sichuan Province, Changping, Shuangqiao, and Bipeng Valleys, Mapmaking

  • Notes
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Changping, Shuangqiao, and Bipeng valleys, mapmaking. After my attempt on the Dragon’s Tooth in 2007, I trekked around the Changping, Shuangqiao, and Bipeng valleys for about nine days, hiking up hillsides, over passes, and up subsidiary valleys trying to get a concept for the area. There have been many intrepid climbers in these valleys, but it is still hard to figure out which peak is what. Each peak may have a Chinese name, a Tibetan name, a name given by the first Western team to climb it, or no name at all. Some peaks can be seen from two different valleys; the locals in each valley have different names for the same peak.

My mission was to use my local knowledge and language skills to unravel the mystery of this new climbing destination. I interviewed local horsemen, Chinese mountaineers, the Sichuan Mountaineering Association, and foreign climbers such as Jon Otto, Tamotsu Nakamura, and Ben Clark. The result is a hand-drawn map with 50 of the most prominent peaks that comprise the Bipeng, Changping, and Shuangqiao valleys. As of now this is the most accurate and useful map of the region. Enjoy. This expedition was made possible by support from the McNeill–Nott Climbing Grant sponsored by the American Alpine Club and Mountain Hardwear.

Jon Lane Sullivan, AAC

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