American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Sichuan Province, Siguniang, Southwest Ridge Integral

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Siguniang, southwest ridge integral. Over eight days in late September, Dylan Johnson and Chad Kellogg made the first complete ascent of the southwest ridge of Siguniang (6,250m) in the Qonglai Shan. In July 1992 eight Japanese climbers led by Chiharu Yoshimura sieged a pronounced buttress toward the left side of the south face, leading to the southwest ridge at ca 5,900m and continuing up the ridge to make the second ascent of the summit. Below the Japanese entry point, the southwest ridge continues for a considerable distance until it falls toward lush forest over a 600m-high triangular rock wall. In 2006 Cosmin Andron and Steve Wai Wah Yip climbed 450m up a prominent rib on the lower wall, naming their route Suffering First Class (p. 420, AAJ 2007). Johnson and Kellogg followed a new 17-pitch line up this lower buttress and continued up the virgin ridge for an additional 47 pitches until they followed the Japanese route to the summit. Their bold, committing ascent (1,900m, 5.11 A2 AI3+ M5) is featured in this Journal.

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