American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Rolwaling Himal, Kwangde Nup (6,035m), Northeast Face, Between Sun and Shadow (t 5,910m)

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Kwangde Nup (6,035m), northeast face, Between Sun and Shadow (to 5,910m). From October 19 to 21 Martin Klestinec and I climbed a new line on the northeast face of Kwangde Nup, immediately right of the spur followed in 1989 by Alan Kearney, solo. We climbed the face with two bivouacs, the first at 5,445m and the second at 5,770m. In the upper section poor snow made protection difficult, and our second bivouac was uncomfortable due to spindrift. We reached the summit ridge at 5,910m, but deep snow and crevasses prevented us from continuing west to the highest point. We descended the southwest face to the Lumding Valley, then crossed back over the Lumding La to the Dudh Kosi, making a further three bivouacs. Our round trip from base camp at Thame was seven days. We named the route Between Sun and Shadow (1,300m of climbing, WI4 M5 80°).

Jan Kreisinger, Czech Republic

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.