American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Rolwaling Himal, Tengkangpoche (6,487m), First Authorized Ascent; Northwest Face, Checkmate

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Tengkangpoche (6,487m), first authorized ascent; northwest face, Checkmate. The most significant pre-monsoon climb in Nepal was Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck’s ascent of the northwest face of Tengkangpoche. Incidentally, it was also the first official ascent of this much- coveted summit to the west of Kwangde. (A confirmed but unauthorized ascent took place in 1984 from the south via the east ridge.) The Swiss pair climbed a line between the north pillar and the line of previous attempts on the northwest face. Anthamatten and Steck summited on April 24 (1,700m, UIAA VI AO M7+ WI5). A complete account appears in the feature section of this Journal.

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