American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Rolwaling Himal, Dingjung Ri South (6,196m), First Known Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Dingjung Ri South (6,196m), first known ascent. Kenro Nakajima and Hiroki Yamamoto made the first authorized ascent of Dingjung Ri South. On March 7 they established base camp on the Meluka (Pangbuk) Glacier at 4,970m. They then placed a high camp below the southeast face at 5,435m. After a rest at base camp, they returned to their high camp on the 14th and climbed the mountain the following day, taking only seven and a half hours to reach the summit in perfect weather. In 2007 their attempt on the southeast face had been straightforward snow climbing, but this time the route was dry and icy with sections of loose rock (up to 50°). They reached the east ridge at 5,900m and continued up the difficult 40° sawtooth crest, the crux of the climb. Although a calendar winter ascent, the climb falls outside the official Nepalese winter season, which runs from December 1 to February 15.

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, Elizabeth Hawley, AAC Honorary Member, Nepal, and Richard Salisbury,

The Himalayan Database

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