American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Central Garhwal, Kamet, Southeast Face, Samuri Direct

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Kamet, southeast face, Samuri Direct. One of the outstanding climbs of the year was the first ascent of Kamet’s previously unattempted but much admired southeast face, by the Japanese couple Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi. They left advance base camp, below the wall at 5,900m, on September 28, reached the 7,756m summit on October 5, and descended through snowfall on the normal route, reaching base camp on the 8th. Their route, Samuri Direct, featured crux sections of AI 5+ and M5+. An account of this climb by Taniguchi is a feature article in this Journal.

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