American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Toro Peak, South Face, Direttissma; Tamadonog, Long Life Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Toro Peak, south face, Direttissma; Tamadonog, Long Life Ridge. On August 27 Anna Pfaff and I arrived at the usual Miyar Valley base camp after blue skies during our three-day trek, and then had to wait out a three-day storm. We scoped a direct line up the south face of Toro Peak and when the weather turned good set up camp near its base. We started climbing at 8 a.m. The first three pitches followed a 5.8 chimney system, which ended with a 5.9 roof (the crux of the route) and a handcrack to a ledge. From the ledge we traversed 210m across a 5.8 face, then climbed another 5.8 face pitch to the headwall. Of many options we chose the most direct line, climbing 280m of 5.8-5.9 face, with small cracks offering protection. We summited at 4 p.m., after climbing 800m. Although overall rock quality and placements were good, the climbing was often runout. Our descent took us down the west ridge, 3rd to 4th class, and we were back in base camp before sunset, naming our route Direttissima.

Since the weather was holding, we headed for Tamadonog, a beautiful peak at the entrance to the Takdung Valley. As we were well-acclimatized, we went light and fast without a high camp. Setting off from base camp at 4 a.m., we started up the toe of the northwest ridge at 6:30. We simul-climbed 500m of 5th class, with some 5.7 to 5.8 pitches. We then encountered a vertical wall and belayed two crux pitches of 5.9 face climbing. We unroped for the last 400m of 5.6-5.7 to the fore-summit, then traversed loose talus to the main summit, with occasional 5th class blocks. We reached the highest point at 5 p.m., having climbed 1,400m.

We descended the west face by one of several gullies. This turned out to be the actual crux of the day; with loose blocks it took way longer than anticipated. Rappelling and down-climbing into the dark, we reached the valley floor and hiked back to our base camp, arriving at 1 a.m. We named the route Long Life Ridge.

Camilo Lopez, U.S.

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