American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Overview, History, and Naming

  • Notes
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Overview, history, and naming. The Miyar, north of the Chenab River at Udaipur, has evolved into one of the most popular Himalayan destinations for alpine rock climbers. Serious exploration first started here 40 years ago, and three main high peaks, Menthosa (6,444m), Phabrang (6,172m) and Gangstang (6,162m), have received sporadic attention. However, it wasn’t until the early 1990s that a group of Italian rock climbers, encouraged by reports from previous trekkers, began to develop the excellent alpine climbing, particularly fine granite rock routes on sub-6,000m towers in the valleys that flow west into the Miyar just below the glacier snout. Italian pioneers named a few of these valleys, and these were used in older reports. Several years ago a British expedition discovered local names, which are used below. To avoid confusion, the four main valleys on the east side of the Miyar are now named, from north to south, Jangpar (the formerly unnamed glacier flowing into the Miyar above its snout), Dali (formerly Thunder or Spaghetti, which flows into the Miyar just below the snout), Chhudong (formerly Tawa), and Takdung (formerly unnamed).

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.