American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Charakusa Valley, K7, Attempt on Southwest Pillar; BC Tower, Possible First Ascent; Badal Wall, Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

K7, attempt on southwest pillar; BC Tower, possible first ascent; Badal Wall, attempt. A team of Slovak climbers visited the Charakusa Valley from June 11 to July 31. Over three days in late June, Gabriel Cmarik, Jan Sofranko, and Viliam Sujan attempted the southwest pillar of K7 (6,934m). Encountering difficulties up to VII A2 WI4, they reached the icefield below the Third Tower at ca 5,400m, where poor weather forced them down. [Editor’s note: British expeditions led by Dai Lampard attempted this pillar in 1990, 1993, and 2006, reaching a high point of 6,300m, above the Fortress, in 1993.]

Andrej Kolarik and Juraj Svingal made a one-day free ascent of the south-southwest ridge (1,300m, VII) of BC Tower, the rock fin across a glacier and talus gully from Beatrice’s southwest face. They found anchors along the route, but these stopped four pitches below the summit, leading them to believe they may have completed a first ascent.

Erik Rabatin, Martin Suchy, and Daniel Sak tried a new route on the left part of the Badal Wall (west face) of K7 West. Sak was injured in a long fall, and the entire expedition helped with the rescue.

Vlado Linek, SMU James, Slovakia

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