American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Broad Peak, West Face; Gasherbrum I, Southwest Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Broad Peak, west face; Gasherbrum I, southwest face. Viktor Afanasiev and Valery Babanov completed an alpine- style new route on the central buttress of 8,047m Broad Peak’s west face (3,000m, ED VI WI5 M6 90°). They joined the west ridge route at Camp 3 (7,100m) after ca 2,000m of elevation gain and reached the summit July 17.

The two then completed a new route on the southwest face of 8,068m Gasherbrum I (2,300m, ED VI WI4 M6 80°) in alpine style. After cresting the southwest face, they joined the 1977 Yugoslavian Route (southwest ridge) at 7,600m and followed this to the top, reaching the summit August 1. Babanov describes these two impressive new routes in a feature article earlier in this Journal.

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