American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tengri Tag, Pik Troglav, North Summit, North Face, Second Ascent; Khan Tengri, One Day Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 2009

Pik Troglav, north summit, north face, second ascent; Khan Tengri, one day ascent. On July 26 Tine Marence and I arrived at South Inylchek Base Camp (4,000m), hoping to climb the south face of Pik Chapaev (6,371m). For our warm up and acclimatization we chose the 1,000m north face of Pik Troglav (5,200m). This mountain has probably seen only two successful ascents from this side: Russians climbed the rocky northeast ridge over five days in 1980, while in 1995 Tomaz Jakofcic, Peter Meznar, and Blaz Stres climbed the Slovenian Route (EDI) on the north face to upper northeast ridge in 15½ hours. Over the 29th-30th we likely made the second ascent of the Slovenian Route. There is a considerable gap between the north and main summits, and we didn’t continue to the latter.To consolidate our acclimatization before attempting Chapaev, we made a one-day ascent of the Standard Route (from the south) on Khan Tengri (6,995m). Bad weather arrived the next day and over the following week deposited 2m of snow. This caused a drama on Pobeda, where 16 climbers were trapped above 6,800m. One died on the descent, and the last climbers only returned to base camp 10 days later. Conditions made an attempt on Chapaev out of the question, and we flew back to civilization.

Andrej Magajne, Slovenia

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