American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Africa, Madagascar, Andringintra National Park, Mitsinjoarivio, East Face, Relief

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Tsaranoro Be, east face, Old Master. A seven-member Slovak team visited the Tsaranoro massif. In six days of climbing, during August 27-31 and September 3-4, Dusan Beranek and Richard Nyeki put up a new route, Old Master, on the east face of Tsaranoro Be. The meat of this 800m route lies between the 2001 South African line, Vazimba, and the 2006 Czech Route, Short Cut (AAJ 2007), and features a number of long runouts. It starts up the wall left of the first two pitches of Vazimba, joins the latter for pitches three and four, then strikes directly up the wall above via the middle of three black water stripes (the right-hand stripe is taken by Short Cut). On September 9 the pair returned to make a redpoint ascent of the 13-pitch route (6b, 6b+, 6a, 6b, 7a+, 7b+, 7c, 7b, 7b, 7a+, 7a+, 7b, 7b).

Vlado Linek, Slovak Mountaineering Union, Slovakia

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