American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains – Sentinel Range, Shinn, South Face Direct

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Shinn, South Face Direct. There were only three reported ascents of nearby Shinn (4,660m). While acclimatizing for his attempt on Tyree, Austrian Chris Stangl soloed the south face direct of Shinn, via a variant of one or both of the existing Chouinard- Tompkins (1985) or Rob Hall (1989) routes. This face lies due south of Goodge Col and features seracs that have threatened different parts of the face over the years. Because of this there is confusion over where the different routes go—or went. Stangl took a line just left of the biggest set of seracs, mostly on moderate but hard ice, crossing one rock band. Above the face he exited onto the broad upper shoulder and continued up the steepening southwest face, summiting through the seracs, as many have done. Descent was via the easier normal route, which descends north off the summit before curving around west to rejoin the shoulder lower down. With the re-siting of Vinson High Camp from its old place on the south side of Goodge Col to higher up on the Branscomb Ridge, Shinn is no longer quite as accessible for Vinson climbers. They now have to descend northeasterly from High Camp, avoiding crevassed areas, and head down onto Goodge Col before continuing on the normal route to the far left of the south face.

Damien Gildea, Australia

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