American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó, El Escudo, Flakes of Wrath, and Cerro Trinidad, E.Z. Does It

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Cochamó, El Escudo, Flakes of Wrath, and Cerro Trinidad, E.Z. Does It. In January 2009 northern Arizona climbers Cullen Kirk, Zach Harrison, and I established Flakes of Wrath (IV 5.11+) up the center of El Escudo, between the routes Pulso and Icaro y la Luna (AAJ 2007, p. 243). Rather than climbing the opening pitches of the two existing routes we scrambled 500m up a fourth- and easy fifth-class ramp to the left. We climbed along the right side of the central flake feature and crossed over Icaro y La Luna on pitch five, before passing between the two prominent roofs at the top of the formation. The crux pitch required seven protection bolts along a seam and thin smears in a corner. We equipped the route over four climbing days, with a complete ascent on the last day.

In February 2009 Zach Harrison and I named a new line on the north face of Cerro Trinidad: E.Z. Does It (350m, IV 5.10+). The route begins a few hundred feet left of Vamos con Peto and right of an obvious roof system, about an hour’s hike up Trinidad’s descent gully. The route goes through a stunning left-facing splitter dihedral on the crux pitch. Originally we thought we were on a route called Velebit. We realized we were off-route a few pitches up but continued to the summit anyhow. There are information gaps and a lack of good references for locating routes on the north face. Some sources offer conflicting descriptions. We found none of the anchors shown on the topo for Velebit and believe ours is an independent line. Twice we returned to bolt better belays and add a protection bolt, and twice we were rained off. On the final ascent we placed one more anchor and two protection bolts, then descended before a huge rainstorm hit.

Eric Frye, Flagstaff, Arizona

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