Ameghino, south face. On Februray 24, 2009, Fernando Arnaudi and I left Plaza Argentina (ca 4,200m) for Ameghino’s (5,883m) south face and climbed 300m of 50° névé, then a very steep 220m cascade, and then another 500m, up to 80°. This last passage was rotten rock below a cornice, which Fer led, and I take my hat off to him. We arrived at a shoulder that connects with the normal route, left our rucksacks, and in 40 minutes reached the hypnotic summit. We returned to the base, where a reward of empanadas and wine awaited us.

Ariel di Carlantonio, Argentina, as told to Marcelo Scanu