American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Andes, Incahuasi, Ruta de las Peladas

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Incahuasi, Ruta de las Peladas. Incahuasi (6,638m) lies on the Chile-Argentina border in the central Andes and is one of the highest volcanoes on earth. It was also one of the highest points ascended by the Incas for religious purposes. On April 19 Guillermo Almaraz, Eduardo Namur, and Nicolás Pantaleón opened a new route from the southeast. They approached by the Valle de Las Peladas to the mountain’s base at 4,600m. Previously the south face had been visited by two expeditions, but this one took a gully to the southeast. They erected camps at 5,200m and 5,750m and ascended névé with 50° ice and some shorter more technical passages, reaching the summit plateau at 6,250m, before continuing to the 6,638m summit. The last meters consisted of loose rock where a simple Inca temple was erected 500 years ago. Also, before the climb they made the first ascent of the nearby Cerro de las Peladas 4,650m.

Marcelo Scanu, Buenos Aires, Argentina

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